I can't believe a man could be so evil. He's a successful businessman, who owns several restaurants where you have to reserve three months in advance and he's a TV celebrity chef. He seems also bounded to his origin, by speaking a little Italian from time to time and drinking homemade grappa (musky flavor). I guess he has been the villain since the beginning. In his troubled mind, he wants to pull the strings of everything and he puts himself above the law (by raping, poisoning, killing), like all the criminals do.
The leading actor, Chris Penn, who dies shortly afterwards, gives a good performance. Goren and Eames get used to telling lies to suspects every episode to get the truth.