An attractively filmed refresh of the cooking competition genre, "The Big Brunch" is pretty, often witty, and humane. Indeed, its warm-heartedness is reminiscent of "The Great British Baking Show," the much-imitated global hit that has yet to be matched by any cooking series originating in the United States. (PBS's "Great American Recipe," at once overworked and underproduced, seemed intent on replicating "Bake Off" -- the format was embarrassingly similar -- but fell far short.) The tone is set by the on-trend, impish-meets-humble humor of series creator Dan Levy, while the judges -- expert chef Sohla El-Waylly and restauranteur Will Giudara -- bring serious cooking knowledge to critiques of each dish. El-Waylly is especially precise, even as she remains a fair, humane judge: it's a balance achieved by few others on shows like this one.
Where I was left wanting more was in the relationships viewers might form with the contestants. Unlike "Bake Off" and Bravo's long-running "Top Chef," we do not see interview-style play-by-plays from the cooks (as cutaways during the action) or immediate post-judging reactions. This storytelling difference winds up making the contestants feel less specific, less dimensional, and less interesting than their counterparts on those other programs. And in that feels particularly unfortunate in the case of this show, for the casting was clearly conducted with great intention. One gets the general sense, though not the deep feeling, that each contestant has a moving life story and cooking perspective to share. I was entertained, but never moved.
"The Big Brunch" offers improvements in the cooking competition model, including a willingness to allow silence on-screen as well as an absence of swooping graphics, dramatic sound effects, and sensational camera movements -- stylistic hallmarks of "Top Chef" and "Chopped," among many, many others. And the articulate judges, like those on "Bake Off" yet very much unlike the larger-than-life food personalities judging so many Food Network programs, bring an expertise that can teach the viewer as well as the contestant. But the show's producers could do more to connect viewers to the special cast they've recruited.
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